Chile
The spectacular wilderness of the Atacama Desert, the cultural, historic and artistic attractions of Santiago, and the striking beauty of Patagonia, combine to make Chile one of my top destinations of all-time and I cannot wait to return!
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Atacama Desert
Our adventure began in the northern stretches of Chile in the Atacama Desert. With its lunar-like landscape, massive sand dunes, jagged canyons, salt flats, hot springs, sink hole lakes and lava fields, the Atacama Desert is one of the most incredible wildernesses on Earth and an outdoor enthusiast’s playground.
San Pedro de Atacama
Our base for exploring northern Chile was the Explora Atacama, an all-inclusive hotel located in San Pedro de Atacama. It was a great choice, as the hotel took the guesswork out of everything as its program included accommodations, transfers to and from the airport, meals and drinks, and a menu of more than 40 exploration routes led by expert guides - - from hiking, cycling, horseback riding to star-gazing in the hotel’s world-class observatory. Our entire experience, from the setting, service, meals and expert guides was amazing!
Two words of caution before diving into the highlights of our trip. First, give yourself time to acclimatize before embarking on any strenuous activities. Sitting 8,000 feet above sea level, San Pedro de Atacama is over the threshold for conditions that could lead to altitude sickness. And, in case you’re wondering, we ALL experienced symptoms like headaches and shortness of breath during our first hike. Second, all hotels recommend a packing list and it is wise to follow it, as the climate can differ greatly from morning to evening and so having the proper layers and shoes is essential.
Our Excursions
Puritama Hot Springs
Our first acclimatization excursion was a hike to the Puritama Hot Springs, which began with an ascending walk through an old grazing farm among giant cacti to the Puritama River Creek, where we descended to walk along the river through rock walls, ravines and vegetation until arriving at a slightly upward trail leading to Explora’s private spring, exclusive to its guests. Along the way, each of us experienced varying degrees of altitude sickness - - shortness of breath and nausea - - but we pushed through and were rewarded with beautiful views and the highlight of the hike - - swimming in the warm (91°F) and refreshing waters of the spring.
Catarpe
After the difficult morning hike to Puritama Hot Springs, the girls opted out of the afternoon excursion in favor of a little rest and relaxation. However, Lloyd and I decided to soldier on with a 20-plus mile bike excursion (a little crazy after our altitude sickness but, hey, we didn’t want to miss anything!) On this excursion, we biked through town and out to the San Pedro River where we followed its course to Catarpe, going through the Quitor pukará (an old fortress) and crossing the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat), a canyon inside the Salt Ridge with zigzagging paths between striking rock formations. It was a beautiful and sometimes strenuous ride, as we had to carry our bikes through a narrow canyon opening and hit a few hills, but it was another enjoyable excursion.
Kari Gorge
A hike that began at a viewpoint with panoramic views to the Moon Valley. From there, we made our way down a dune and walked along Kari creek, a canyon carved by the erosion of water and surrounded by sedimentary walls of clay, gypsum, and salt. Along the way, we took in the breathtaking views of the volcanoes dotting the skyline, scrambled through and over jagged rocks, trekked through caves and took in the wonder of the salt that was all around us, including a carpet of salt beneath our feet. This was one of our favorite hikes but, fair warning, it is not for the faint of heart as you have to walk along a narrow ridgeline before making your way down the dune, but the beauty of the Moon Valley is worth it!
Dunas de la Chula
This was an incredible journey on horseback toward the La Sal Mountains. Along the way, we crossed the San Pedro River and went through sand dunes with panoramic views of the Andes Mountain Range on the horizon. The horses at the Explora are beautiful and the guide gave us the opportunity to trot, canter and/or gallop in addition to walking and so I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to gallop. It was exhilarating!
Cornisas
Another incredible excursion! We started at the Catarpe Valley, where we trekked along the ledge of the La Sal Mountains with beautiful panoramic views of the oasis, the Atacama salt field and the Andes Mountain range. After taking off our shoes (makes for an easier trek), we had the opportunity to walk or run down the majestic dunes of the Marte Valley and onto the floor of the crater. The girls had a blast running down, while Lloyd acted as our sherpa by carrying all of our hiking boots. I stayed back to photograph the splendor and exhilaration of the experience!
Observatory
Late at night, we had the chance to visit the Explora observatory for a guided talk consisting of an explanation of the stars and the main constellations, followed by the showstopper - - a peak at the brilliant night sky through a telescope! This experience was amazing, as the Atacama Desert has one of the clearest skies in the world.
Laguna Céjar
For our final excursion, we selected a bike trek. The mostly flat, dirt route took us along a route with the Andes Mountain Range in full view to reach the Laguna Céjar, a sink hole lake in the Atacama Salt Plains. This lake, outlined by salt crusts, has an 85% salt content, enabling swimmers to float high on the surface of the lagoon. As fun as that may sound, you are not able to stay in for long as the water is quite cold. That said, it was an incredibly memorable experience watching Lloyd and the girls frolic in the water (and the plush towels and robes provided by the hotel were an extra special touch).
Santiago
The next stop on our tour of Chile was Santiago, the capital and largest city. Our visit was intended as a respite between the outdoor adventures in the north and our final highly active itinerary in the south, but we managed to strike a nice balance between exploring the city and enjoying a little down time.
Singular Santiago
For our stay, we selected the The Singular Santiago, Lastarria Hotel for its prime location in the center of the city, near cultural, historic and artistic attractions. With its great location, excellent service, an elegant aesthetic and exceptional dining options, it was a great choice.
Santa Lucia Hill
An easy walk from our hotel, you can climb the stairs to the top of Santa Lucia Hill to enjoy panoramic views of Santiago. Brick pathways wind around the hill and lead to small squares and lookout points. It is a lovely park and a fun way to spend some time during our walking tour of Santiago.
Cerro San Cristóbal
Santa Lucia Hill was lovely, but for the best views over Santiago you have to make your way to the viewpoints of Cerro San Cristóbal, which is part of Metropolitan Park. To reach the summit, you can walk, take the funicular or ride the cable car. We opted for the best of both worlds, taking the teleférico (cable car) to the summit and the funicular down.
Other Sites
Other sites visited during our stay in Santiago include the Plaza de Armas, an important and bustling square surrounded by many historic buildings, such as the National History Museum and Central Post Office; Ahumada Street, a pedestrian avenue with lots of shops and restaurants, and plenty of people watching; the Mercado Central, a vibrant market that has been in business since 1872 and continues to be a popular place to shop and eat, with an abundance of seafood; and the Bellavista neighborhood, which is home to some terrific street art.
Patagonia
The final destination of our absolutely amazing trip was Patagonia, a 402,000 square mile region encompassing the southernmost tip of South America and shared by Argentina and Chile, with the Andes Mountains as its dividing line.
Puerto Natales
Our base for exploring this area was Puerto Natales, a formerly modest fishing port that is now a rich adventurer activity scene, one of the key highlights beings its status as the gateway to the famous Torres del Paine National Park. Hip eateries, boutique hotels, gear shops and cafe’s abound, but the town still maintains a cozy, laid back vibe with picturesque views of the Last Hope Sound.
Singular Patagonia
For our stay, we chose The Singular Patagonia, located just outside Puerto Natales. It is an incredibly unique hotel in that was created from an early 20th-century meatpacking and cold storage plant and was designated a National Monument in 1996 for the significant part it played in the origins of Puerto Natales and the region’s industry. The original buildings have been beautifully redesigned, incorporating a museum into the lobby to display original artifacts and equipment. Overlooking Last Hope Sound, the guest rooms have floor-to-ceiling expansive windows (19 feet wide!) permitting guests to take in the breathtaking views of the sea and mountain peaks. The grounds of the hotel are equally stunning and rugged, contributing to the overall spectacular experience.
In booking our stay, we had the option of an all-inclusive or half-board (breakfast with lunch or dinner, plus all excursions) package. Given that the excursions that interested us most, including a trip to Torres del Paine National Park, would keep us away during lunch, we selected the half-board package and it worked well for us. Overall, the service, accommodations and food were exceptional with a special nod ro our dinner at the hotel’s El Asador restaurant, an intimate setting located in the old blacksmith’s workshop and revolving around the open wood-burning grill, where meats such as lamb, guanaco, rabbit and beef are prepared with other distinctive delicacies using the region’s best ingredients. It was a truly memorable experience that should be booked upon arrival, as there is limited seating (40 guests) and the restaurant is only open a few days per week (Wednesday thru Saturday).
For our stay, we chose The Singular Patagonia, located just outside Puerto Natales. It is an incredibly unique hotel in that was created from an early 20th-century meatpacking and cold storage plant and was designated a National Monument in 1996 for the significant part it played in the origins of Puerto Natales and the region’s industry. The original buildings have been beautifully redesigned, incorporating a museum into the lobby to display original artifacts and equipment. Overlooking Last Hope Sound, the guest rooms have floor-to-ceiling expansive windows (19 feet wide!) permitting guests to take in the breathtaking views of the sea and mountain peaks. The grounds of the hotel are equally stunning and rugged, contributing to the overall spectacular experience.
In booking our stay, we had the option of an all-inclusive or half-board (breakfast with lunch or dinner, plus all excursions) package. Given that the excursions that interested us most, including a trip to Torres del Paine National Park, would keep us away during lunch, we selected the half-board package and it worked well for us. Overall, the service, accommodations and food were exceptional with a special nod ro our dinner at the hotel’s El Asador restaurant, an intimate setting located in the old blacksmith’s workshop and revolving around the open wood-burning grill, where meats such as lamb, guanaco, rabbit and beef are prepared with other distinctive delicacies using the region’s best ingredients. It was a truly memorable experience that should be booked upon arrival, as there is limited seating (40 guests) and the restaurant is only open a few days per week (Wednesday thru Saturday).
Our Excursions
Condors Trek
An intermediate level hike that led us to the summit of Cerro Benitez, where we were hoping to observe the imposing presence and flight of the austral condors, and take in the extraordinary views of Sofia lake and the fjords of Eberhard and Ultima Esperanza. While the promised views were indeed extraordinary, we sadly didn’t see any condors. Slightly disappointing, but the beautiful hike and our expert guide more than made up for it!
Navigating the Local Traditions
Our full day adventure began with a sail to the Estancia La Peninsula, a beautiful ranch located in the Antonio Varas peninsula. Once we arrived and fully took in our surroundings, we had a range of activities to choose from - - horseback riding, trekking or simply talking to locals. The family selected horseback riding, while I had an opportunity to take a private guided photography tour (only because I was the only person who selected this option!) of the beautiful grounds and landscape in a 4x4 vehicle. Stunning drive, while the family loved exploring on horseback! Throughout the remainder of the day, we were able to spend time with gauchos (cowboys), savor an exquisite "Asado al Palo" (Patagonian barbecue) and learn about the sheep shearing process and how wool is spun. It was a wonderful opportunity to connect to the local spirit and to experience an authentic Patagonian day.
Torres del Paine National Park
Located in Chilean Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park is, quite simply, spectacular. Often recognized as one of the most beautiful places on earth, it’s easy to see why as it boasts jaw-dropping vistas at nearly every turn - - waterfalls, turquoise lakes, fjords, ancient forests, bright blue icebergs that cleave from Grey Glacier, wildlife and of course, its crown jewel, the three granite peaks called Torres del Paine. It’s truly an adventurer’s and hiker’s paradise (including the legendary W Trek, a 50-mile multi-day hike), but there is also so much to offer families traveling with kids. To ensure that we were able to experience the top highlights of the park during our one-day exploration, we hired a private tour guide and honestly, the tour was worth every penny. That said, I hope to return one day soon when the girls are older so that we can take advantage of the park’s many incredible hikes, as well as visit the Antarctic Peninsula, which is just a 2 hour flight away. In the meantime, here are some key highlights.
The Paine Towers
The three peaks from which the park takes its name are the most iconic centerpiece of the park, dominating its landscape. I will attest to the beauty of the towers, but I cannot deny the breathtaking beauty of so many of the park’s other sights, beginning with Grey Glacier.
Grey Glacier
Once we entered the park, our experience began with a boat cruise to Grey Glacier. To get to our boat, we had to walk approximately 30 minutes across a rope bridge, through a forest of beech trees and then along the pebbled shore of Lake Grey. The walk itself was amazing, but the highlight was our 3-hour journey aboard the Grey III catamaran, as it navigated a course through the vivid blue icebergs that dot Lago Grey before taking us right up to the face of Grey Glacier and the imposing surrounding mountains. While we have experienced spectacular glaciers and icebergs calving up close in Alaska, it was great to see an equally impressive glacier, even if smaller, up close on another continent.
Salto Grande
To view the beauty of this site, we hiked 20 minutes to the lookout for Salto Grande, a waterfall in Torres del Paine. While relatively small, it’s a powerful waterfall, draining massive amounts of water and dropping 50 feet through a narrow chute from the blue waters of Lake Nordenskjold into Lake Pehoe. The hike is worth the views, but be forewarned - - the whipping winds at the top of the waterfall can be quite powerful.
Cascada Paine
Another beautiful waterfall accessible by a short hike and set in a wide valley against a backdrop of the Torres del Paine, is the Cascada Paine. It’s a must-see!
Guanacos
Wildlife in the park is abundant, including pumas, condors and deer, but the main attraction for me was the guanaco. Native to South America and closely related to the llama, these lovely mammals can be found extensively across Torres del Paine. In fact, the park is one of the last remaining places where truly wild guanacos can be found.
Weather
On a final note, like the desert in northern Chile, the weather in Patagonia can vary greatly from day to day and hour to hour, so it’s important to be prepared by dressing in layers, including wind and water resistant outer layers.